Your rhododendron and azalea plants seem fairly healthy, maybe a little yellow, which could be from too high pH. It would be a good idea to get a soil pH done. The There are no signs of sunscald on the leaves, so the plants appear to handle the location well. I don’t see any flower buds, though. Pruning them to open up the structure of the plants, allow light into the center and expose the base will help you manage them better. Spring is normally the time to prune rhododendrons, but you can prune mature woody branches anytime it isn’t freezing. It’s best for the plant to spread radical pruning out over 2-3 years. This fall prune out branches that touch the ground. Then thin out older branches that aren’t as vigorous or are crossing and/or interfering with each other. Evaluate your results often to see if the shape is improving. Since you are taking your time, it’s easier to plan what you want the plant to look like when you’re done. This article has interesting information on pruning rhododendrons for various situations, Thoughts on Growing Rhododendrons in Difficult Locations https://www.rhododendron.org/v59n2p72.htm.

Once you can see the base of the plant add organic mulch around, but not touching the trunk. This is very helpful to all plants, but especially rhododendrons with their shallow root system. Mulch will help control soil evaporation to keep the roots moist. Mulch also modifies sudden temperature changes, in both summer and winter. It adds organic material to the soil, which is very important for a healthy plant, and shades out weed seedlings. Use a 2-4 inch layer of mulch in a donut shape, leaving about 5 inches free around the trunk. In the spring you can add organic fertilizer to the mulch which will provide a long-lasting source of nutrients. Fertilizing now will only encourage week growth that winter will damage. Wait until growth has started in the spring. Good mulch materials include compost, wood shavings, conifer needles among others.

Your plants will really appreciate summer watering. Plants take up large quantities of water from moist soil when it’s hot. The water is then transported to the leaves to keep the plant hydrated. When we have summers like the last two the soil completely dries out, and, combined with excess heat, is very hard on rhododendrons. It takes time in the fall for that soil to make up the moisture deficit. Slow, deep watering with soaker hoses or drip irrigation is very helpful. This article gives more information on watering rhodies, Irrigation https://www.rhododendron.org/irrigation.htm.

You could also move your rhododendron and azalea plants to a better place in your garden, and fall is the perfect time. Our fall rains have already started, so although the soil is still pretty dry, it’s getting better. Water your plants well prior to digging them up so the plants are well hydrated. Dig as many of the root area as possible, water well again. Dig your new planting hole to the depth of the root ball and wider than the root ball. Water the hole. Set the plant in the ground so it sits at or above the soil line. Water in well, mulch well and you should be good until spring. Rhododendron Culture and Care https://www.rhododendron.org/planting.htm. Rhododendrons appreciate protection from extreme heat in the form of dappled shade.