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Spanning an unprecedented seven exhibition halls, the 37th Mido recently settled in to its new home at the Fieramilano at Rho-Pero in Milan. Once again a host of new brands and designers made their international eyewear debut, while veterans of the industry proved why they were so successful by unveiling fresh new designs.
Design ingenuity was to be found across all stands, with both major players and boutique designers experimenting with new materials, including rubber, apoxy and new metal alloys. Others were busy redefining the concept of luxury – adorning their frames with diamonds, pearls, Swarovski crystals and other precious gems.
With such a focus on fresh designs and so much effort invested into the manufacture of frames, it is easy to understand why the world market for eyewear was recently valued at around £6.1bn.
Major players
There was much excitement at the Marchon stand generated by the news that the company would be launching a Pucci eyewear collection in January 2008. Emilio Pucci is famous for his brightly printed scarves and floating dresses which have become a regular on catwalks around the globe. According to Marchon head of public relations Robert Scheinburg the Pucci brand was looking to push further into accessories and felt eyewear was the ideal product to do this. The brand will be officially launched in the US at Vision Expo East in March, followed by a European launch at Mido, in May.
This year, however, Marchon is expecting big things from its Michael Kors range. The New York label is already well known in the US, and is growing steadily in popularity in Europe. ‘We think this is an indication that people are beginning to look for other designers’ brands – people want something new,’ said Scheinburg. The new eyewear range takes a number of cues from the designer’s clothing lines, incorporating chains and buckles – in particular the Scorpio buckle – into the frames.
Marchon has also developed a new type of sunglass frame especially for women. The ‘hairband’ frame is a lightweight wrap with small hinges that means the frames can easily be pushed back on the head and worn – as the name suggests – like a hairband. The smaller hinges mean that hair does not become caught and pulled when the frames are taken off.
The corridors of the exhibition hall doubled as catwalks at the Safilo stand, where models paraded the latest in optical and sunglass fashion. This year, Safilo was launching the Hugo by Hugo Boss line, a top-end range inspired by ‘industrial design’. The collection comprises minimalist metal and titanium frames, with discreet branding. Highlights included the Hugo 0001-s, a quintessential aviator in silver – and Hugo 0008, a contemporary optical frame with a black metallic front and a contrasting silver interior. An ultra futuristic mask was unveiled in the Dior corner. The two Dior Sport models feature fine wire arms, made from steel, which can be retracted back into a resin disc structure at the temples of the mask.
The Marcolin stand, which was one of the biggest at the show, drew some of the biggest crowds with new collections covering many themes such as sport, classic, fashion and modern luxury. Leading brands included Ferrari Roberto Cavalli, Miss Sixty, Kenneth Cole, Ferrari, Replay and Timberland.
The new Ferrari vision eyewear collection, which takes its inspiration from the world of fast cars, offered a mix of innovative high-tech design and originality. The collection sits well alongside the existing models and the use of materials such as beta-titanium and aluminium deliver almost weightless frames and is suitable for sport situations. For example, the FR5008 is an ultra light model in beta-titanium, which is both stretchy and adjustable to any kind of fitting. Its memory shape technology ensures the keeping of the frame’s original shape, even after impact shocks and excessive temperatures. The temples are stylised with the horse insert on a double cord thread, the temple tips are double cord of beta-titanium and flexible injected material.
Viva International Group was also moving further into the realm of sports fashion with its new Tommy Hilfiger Sport Sun collection. Fourteen new models make up the new line and feature sport-influenced details such as rubber temple tips, adjustable nose pads, and mirrored lenses. A sporty aviator model was also added to the main collection. The TH 7227 features oversized, rectangular lenses, with a double bridge, open sides and the instantly recognisable Tommy Hilfiger flag at the temples.
Viva was also keen to push the new models in its Pure Eyewear range. Launched in January, the range is described as ‘the world’s first rimless eyewear that requires no drilling or notching’. Silvermist cable, made from stainless steel and platinum, is instead used to secure the lens in place. New cat’s eyes shapes, herringbone patterns and vibrant colours – orange, green and violet – have been incorporated into the new designs.
The bustling De Rigo Vision stand had an impressive line-up on offer from ultra-luxury frames to mid-market frames with brand names such as Police, Celine Lunettes, Chopard, La Perla and Ermenegilodo Zegna under its wings. It is a well known fact that celebrity endorsement can reap huge rewards for products and for the very first time in the history of Police eyewear, the optical range has an official spokesman in the shape of Hollywood heart-throb Antonio Banderas. According to De Rigo Vision, the Spanish star’s ‘deep, aggressive gaze and remarkable charm’ perfectly reflects the style and substance of the brand. The latest collection draws its inspiration from the 1980s and ‘the American dream’. The models within the range feature simple acetate temples and sides, decorated with studs, rhinestones or restyled gothic ‘P’ logo. Celebrity endorsement has paid off for other Police merchandise, particularly sunglasses, and De Rigo Vision hopes that this will be repeated in the optical eyewear range with the Banderas marketing campaign now under way.
Square eyed
Squares were definitely the main theme of the Dogma 1 series released by Mykita. Clean, straight lines and double nose bridges were hallmarks of the new optical and sunglass frames, explained public relations officer Anna von Low, a direct result of an interesting design experiment. ‘The series was developed by giving the designers a set of pre-defined creative limits – in this case straight lines and minimum radii were specified. It forced them to find new ways of creating frames,’ von Low said.
The collection comprises six models available in graphite, pearl, purple and a new white tone based on real silver.
Mykita has also chosen to update its popular Collection No1. ‘We have taken some of our best-selling models from this collection and updated them. For example, Roman has become Robert. We feel we have made the frames even better,’ von Low said.
It was a family affair on the William Morris stand, with founder and designer Robert William Morris and niece, greeting visitors and taking orders. Morris came to Mido in high spirits, after scooping the Best Ladies Design award in the frames competition at last month’s Optrafair. His combination of high fashion frames at mid-range prices also proved a hit at Mido. Morris believes that he has cornered the market by being neither a designer label nor a high brand.
‘Consumers want to express their individuality and sense of style with their eyewear. I design with that very much in forefront in my mind,’ explained Morris. ‘Their choice of frame is not solely dependent on price but is driven by how it makes the wearer feel.’ He noted catwalk fashion was influencing the men’s eyewear market, where there was now a new demand for daring and adventurous frames. ‘Frames as a fashion statement are no longer the domain of women, and independents must recognise this trend when selecting their collections,’ he said.
More than 40 new acetate and metallic models were on display. Frames such as model 8023, a combination of black and clear acetate, are sure to be hit by homing in on the popularity of two colour combination frames.
Colours of the rainbow
Every shade and hue imaginable could be found among the stands at Mido this year, and Face à Face in particular maintained its reputation for creating colourful frames.
Several new frames were launched by the French company, of which one of the most striking was the Eden frame. An oversized acetate with a metal piece set into the brow bar, the unisex frame was hailed as a ‘new concept’ within the Face à Face collection. In the wider collection, older styles had been given a makeover with new eye shapes and colour and pattern combinations. Among these was the Nueva, now released in acetate leopard and zebra prints, and the Elvis, a wide and chunky men’s frame with curved temples that now comes in a violet and red mesh pattern.
The violently pink Frost stand was certainly noticeable within the Design Lab pavilion of the exhibition, and the frames lived up to this first impression. The collection created by Marian Frost, previously a goldsmith, comprises mainly layered acetate frames in all colours. The frames are, acknowledged president Paris Frost, for those who want to ‘grab attention’. Throughout the range, there are recurring colour combinations of lilac and pale tortoise, orange and flamingo pink, and orange and transparent lime. Dark colours are rare in this collection, save for the black and red Henry VIII frame. This chunky black frame features a red crown shape at the nose bridge. More interesting shapes and details creep into the Frost readers collection, in particular the Angel frame, which has a sweeping lower half – clearly inspired by angel wings. ‘We like to have unique shapes and colours throughout the collection. We like to be able to use our imagination,’ said Frost.
Colourful new models from Agatha Ruiz de la Prada were out on show at the Optim stand. The Spanish designer, according to press and advertising manager Liliana Gomicia, hates black and incorporates vibrant colours and patterns into all her designs. The AR61109 was testament to this – its candy pink outside was combined with an orange interior and the sides of the stainless steel frame had been chemically cut to produce a clutter of hearts, moons and stars. The AR21114 aviator was the highlight of the sunglass collection. While adopting the fine lines and shapes traditionally associated with the aviator, the designer has stamped her own style on the model, engraving tiny hearts around the entire edge of the lens, and even cutting out a tiny heart in the bottom left corner of the lens.
Optim were also presenting the latest models in their Gaudi Eyewear range. As the name suggests, the inspiration is the architecture of Antoni Gaudi, and here colour takes a backseat to design and fine details. For example, the GD58057 features detailing that imitates the curves and loops of a wrought iron door on the Pabellon Guell building. And the sides of the GD58060 features gold-plated chemical cut arms that have been inlaid with pieces of mother of pearl – reminiscent of the broken tile mosaic decorations at the La Pedrera. Optim are currently looking for a UK distributor for their ranges.
At the Lafont stand, the new ophthalmic frames were of rich, autumnal colours, but the new patterns and detailing were the talking points. Two particularly original designs were the brick pattern found on the Tomy frame, and the pebble pattern on the round Truffe frame. The aptly named Tigresse frame featured ‘scratches’ – or rather criss-crossed laser etchings – on the acetate front and sides, while Tania has an impression of raindrops stamped into the metal sides. Tresor is a new frame that builds on the success of its predecessor – Star – and has chemical-cut filigree sides with crystals studded along them.
Designers from upmarket avant-garde French eyewear company Eye’DC were on hand to explain the concepts and design influences behind their latest collection, which incorporates 37 new models. The new collection is brimming with combinations of new colours and materials. It’s an eclectic collection, and likely to appeal to discerning customers looking for a classic frame with a twist.
A combination of acetate and stainless steel, the Arkad model (V710/711/712) was a good example of a stylish mix of old and new. The frame embodied an enticing blend of 1940s chic and 20th century pizzazz. Model V605 (Rail) was another good example of the intricate design efforts of the collection. The frame encapsulates two flat horizontally superimposed bars which are separated from the lens and are linked by the bridge. They are curved and slightly spaced on the sides to allow for the insertion of the acetate temple fixed by a metal pin. It’s an unconventional design, to say the least.
Designer Lionel Bellet explained that the new additions launched at the show were an ‘expression of creativity’ as the company allowed designers a free rein on design concepts. ‘We don’t design for design’s sake to keep up with the latest trends. The creative thought process of the designer comes first and a lot more emphasis is placed on the designer’s concepts,’ said Bellet.
Modern glamour
At the Optical Shop of Aspen stand, Chrome Hearts unleashed its latest in rock and roll luxury designs. Already well known for its lavishness, the brand has this year ‘ramped it up a gear’ with designers combining precious gems and original materials and finishes to make the frames even more impressive. The embodiment of this attitude comes in the shape of the Disfunctional sunglass frame. Studded with more than 100 diamonds at the hand-worked sterling silver temples, this frame retails for more than $5,000. Animal prints have been introduced into the range, Poon features zebra-patterned, hand stitched pony skin sides, while Hard James features faux cheetah fur down the sides. Both of these models include diamond studded fleur de lis. There were also high expectations of the Beast sunglass frame, the sides of which are made of seven fine layers of ebony wood, the outer two layers of which are albino ebony. Down the sides, the pale wood has been lasered away to reveal the darker layers and tiny gothic crosses have been lasered around the entire edge of the frame fronts.
Equally as luxurious is the optical collection, where Chrome Hearts have used high quality acetates and titanium. According to OSA representative Robert Price, the optical collection reflected the return of ‘geek chic’ with deeper wayfarer styles making a welcome comeback. Hot Tool and Sneaky Pete in particular reflect this new style and the Dismembered is a frame that has ‘turned around the optical collection completely’. The gothic motifs have not been forgotten, several acetate models have gothic crosses inserted into the tips. And for the first time, Chrome Hearts has decided to make some of its designs more easily recognisable including a gothic script ‘ch’ on the temples.
Robert la Roche has similarly moved into gothic glamour, launching a new Diamonds ophthalmic and sunglass range at Mido. The new range builds on the Gothic range that was released at last year’s Silmo, and introduces diamond and other precious gems worked into sterling silver crosses, fleur de lis and the RLR logo.
Gothic styles were also to be found at the Sama Eyewear stand in the new Loree Rodkin range. The Scarlett sunglass frame drew attention, and here designers had taken the unusual step of using light lens material as the actual frame, and then setting within this a dark lens. The result was an interesting ‘lens within a lens’ effect. Also unusual was the Carrie sunglass frame where a sterling silver gothic cross was floating within clear acetate, which had been moulded into a window in the open sides.
But old school glamour was far from forgotten. Among the new models in the Badgley Mischka range was Amanda, a creamy oversized acetate sunglass frame with an actual pearl delicately set at the temples. A new branch to this collection – the Badgley Mischka Active range – has also been created. Alfie and Bradley are quintessential aviators, gold and white gold plated respectively, while Grace is a feminine aviator with a sizeable pink Swarovski crystal set at the temples.
Industrial feel
A new design concept was unveiled by Augusto Valentini at the Look Occhiali stand. The veteran frame designer has created the AVD Lab Tech Mood collection, a small series of stainless steel and moulded rubber frames. The high nickel content of the steel means the metal has a shimmering appearance, and combined with colours such as white, lilac, pale blue, and light grey, the overall result is an icy, industrial feel.
‘This collection is inspired by design, not fashion. I want to distance myself from the fashion world,’ Valentini said. ‘The source of my inspiration is everything around me – from furniture to cars to buildings. I look for something that provokes an emotional response within me, and then I transfer parts of that into my design work.’ The new materials, he said, gave him an opportunity to create new shapes and textures and, ultimately, a ‘very special product’. Look Occhiali has partnered with Bluesky to distribute the new range, plus the well-established Augusto Valentini Design range, throughout the UK. The company hopes to start introducing the ranges into selected stores by the beginning of June.
At the Cult stand, designer Alessandro Martaire discussed the technique used in his latest Creativi Attivi rubber and metal frames. The ‘double injection’ technique involves heating rubber to a high temperature and then injecting it into a mould and onto the metal. The result is frames like the CA101 with rubber inserted into cut away sides, or the CA120, where moulded rubber and metal form interlocking shapes.
In the Alek Paul collection, Martaire was introducing five new acetate models in muted shades. The new models also include the cylinder flex hinge at the temple, a feature that affords the frames greater flexibility. ‘We are always looking to develop and improve our frames and this was one way of doing it,’ Martaire said. ‘We expect this hinge will become a recognisable characteristic of all Alek Paul frames.’
Gotti has continued to introduce ophthalmic models with arms moulded from the G-flex apoxy. First introduced at Silmo last year, the material – also used in surgical instruments – has been used on the new Gun and Ima models. Gotti has also continued its tradition of creating male and female pairings, among this year’s offerings are the Neil and Nele layered acetate frames. Classical shapes are hallmarks of this collection, and they have been combined with colourful natural tones.
Gotti has also begun to expand its sunglass range. What started off as a traditional range has moved further into the realm of fashion, with new styles such as the oversized acetates Sinclair and Susan and gold aviators such as Spiro making a welcome appearance. ‘We moved into sunglasses because our customers started asking for them,’ said Claudia Casti, assistant product manager. ‘I think it reflects a shift in the market, people are beginning to look for quality product design, and not brand names.’
Baumvision was extending its Paul Frank product range by producing a range of metallic frames for the first time ever. After developing a reputation for stylish retro acetates, designers have now come up with the Televator, a matt metal aviator with a polished brow bar and acetate inserts at the nose bridge. In the same vein, but slightly smaller is the 21st Century Digital Boy aviator. Metal has also been used in the optical collection, in models Boredom is Reason and Pills, Thrills and Bellyaches, where deeper fronts have been combined with colourful acetate sides. There was also a slight departure from the wayfarer and aviator styles in the acetate optical collection with cat’s eyes and upswept models introduced specifically for female faces.
A touch of the Orient
If there was an award for the stand with the most creative use of outlandish colours, then Coco Song, would scoop the first prize for its sheer cornucopia of eye-catching colours such as vibrant pink and lime green.
The company’s promotional material unashamedly boasts, ‘the most beautiful frames in the world’, and although this of course is a matter of taste, there is no arguing that the fusion of Italian design and with Chinese symbols works well.
Different colours are used throughout the collection to signify different moods or sentiments. For example, blue is for tranquillity, red for joy and love, green for creativeness, pink for sweetness and tenderness, white for pureness and black for finesse. Incidentally, yellow – the colour of the Chinese Emperor – has proved to be the most popular colour to date.
Models Morning Butterfly and Ever Wanted were a hit at the show. The frames encapsulate the spirit of Coco Song with a base of silk and a skeletal dried leaf laminated in clear acetate.
The latest Nodoka collection from Charmant also brought a touch of the Orient to Mido. Visitors to this busy stand were charmed by the themed colourful POS material such as traditional Japanese Andon lanterns and the bright red Japanese fans.
The new Kyoto collection encompasses simple, yet elegant square frame designs, which derive their motifs from Japanese culture and resonate the spiritual undertones of the city which is associated with gentle tranquillity, serenity and peacefulness.
According to Charmant, the use of subtle colours embodies the essence of the range – which is sophisticated beauty. The light-weight titanium frames feature striking motifs inspired by traditional Japanese culture such as Torii (traditional Shinto shrine) and Kimonos.
Introduced at Mido, models ND10144 and ND10145 use the neckline of the Kimino to delicately accentuate the temples. The design consists of a harmonic blend of the Kasane shape (a traditional Japanese way of folding cloth, resulting in wonderful colour effects), embossed symbols and metallic colour.
The ND10140 features the ‘Hanabi’ motif meaning ‘flowers of fire’ which symbolises traditional fireworks, with a religious background representing their essential part in the Japanese summer celebrations. The image of the radiant flowers from the fireworks have been transferred onto the temple of frame which is available in four colours.
Sport fashion
The team from Parasite were on hand to field questions and to demonstrate the versatility of the new additions. For full appreciation, visitors were asked to try on the various models to gauge the flexibility, lightness and the fashion credentials of the range.
The high-tech sports eyewear company had the new Cell model on prominent display, which offers modern twist on the full mask design. Cell is available in small and large sizes, which is a first for the company, and in a range of highly fashionable colours.
The C13 in particular stood out with its smoked glass mask, brushed crome mounting. As with all models from the collection, the sides, with their dynamic lines, are seamlessly integrated with the mounting by means of a superimposed joint. As well as being aesthetically pleasing, the design allows for optimised flexibility of the sides, as well as enhanced holding and comport,
Ego Eyewear dedicated their space at Mido to Swedish sport brand Bjorn Borg. Here, the talk was all about the new sunglass collection designed by Marco Benetti, who was previously involved with the first Tom Ford collection. The collection, which will be officially launched in 2008, is obviously dedicated to tennis. Tiny silver tennis balls and tennis ball graphics run throughout the range. Modern masks – Tommy, Svetlana and Fernando – are the key pieces, but Benetti has used a wide variety of shapes and materials to create a diverse range. Rafael, for example, is a rounded metallic frame with a mesh nose bridge and sides, while Nikolay is a softened wayfarer acetate with criss-crossed laser etching down the sides. Both frames, said Benetti, were inspired by the tennis net.
The ones to watch
Up-and-coming US designer Derek Lam picked up a Council of Fashion Designers of America award in 2005 and is now working hard at making himself a household name. Last year he joined forces with the Modo team and the result is a new women’s ophthalmic and sunglass collection.
‘He has his own unique vision on fashion,’ explained Giovanni Lo Faro, director of marketing and business development at Modo. ‘When we first met he asked us what was trendy at the moment. We told him over-sized rectangular shapes. So he has gone and designed the opposite – smaller sized frames with sweeping curves.’
Cat’s eyes, upswept and softened wayfarer shapes in soft two-tone colour combinations – such as pearl and flamingo, or tortoise and flamingo – make for a distinctly feminine sunglass collection. It is not hard to guess that the inspiration was 1950s vintage glamour and screen icons such as Grace Kelly. Similar shapes and colours run through the ophthalmic collection.
Pepe Jeans London has also branched out and launched its first eyewear collection. Mondottica now holds the European licence (Spain and Portugal excepted). The ophthalmic collection consists of 19 models – 10 metallic and nine acetate frames. Sticking with the current demand for clean, rectangular shapes, the frames come in a variety of vibrant colour combinations. Tote PJ 1013 and Josie PJ 1015 are two of the unisex styles expected to be popular. The sunglass collection again pays attention to current and emerging trends, and includes double-bridged aviators, oversized and cat’s eyes frames.
Mondottica co-managing director Andrew Wilkinson was anticipating big things from the collection. ‘This brand is a global brand, it is one which people know and there is a good recall of it – even among older people,’ Wilkinson said. ‘We are targeting the 18- to 30-year-old market and as such we expect to be positioned against brands such as FCUK and Guess.’
Visitors looking for glitz and glamour at Mido were spoiled for choice on the Kirk Originals stand which had an impressive collection of colourful, flamboyant, and sophisticated frames on display.
A consumer press favourite, designer Jason Kirk gave the low down on the Evolution collection launched at the show. The frames which come in four colour combinations and four styles, are named after Greek gods – Zeus, Apollo, Athena and Aphrodite.
‘Customers are more informed and fashion conscious than ever before’ explained Kirk. ‘They are more likely to be aware of the latest trends and are also more adventurous with their choice of a frame. Price is also less likely to be a barrier if they like what they see.’
The colour combinations on the frames are vibrant and incorporate a spring hinge for increased flexibility, which according to Kirk took over three years to develop. The are hand-made frames feature fronts with a contrasting T-bar and include the company’s signature acrylic temples.
The frames come in the four colour combinations a grey front/blue side, black front/grey side, orange front/red side, red front/black side.
Glamour was also to be found at the Belstaff range where the focus was on the new frames released under the metal/acetate and fusion range. In particular the BS19 sunglass, a metallic aviator with open sides, and the BS17 sunglass, an acetate with with a bold Union Jack pattern down the sides, are expected to be popular models. Billed as ‘ultra contemporary and very cool’, the brand itself is planning a major global expansion and with Kate Moss now fronting the worldwide advertising campaign, Belstaff is likely to be a brand to watch.
It was a real effort to manoeuvre around the expansive Alain Mikli stand because of the sheer numbers wanting to get a look at the various collections on display. Mikli is very much a man of the moment he can list many Hollywood A-list celebrities such as Brad Pitt and Elton John as clients and was responsible for designing the frames worn by America Ferrera, the star of the hit TV show Ugly Betty. There is a lot of buzz in the industry that this show alone has been responsibility for those with more classic taste to actively seek more colourful frames, and treat their eyewear as a fashion accessory.
Premiering at Mido was the new aluminium collection by Alain Mikli, a range of light stylish frames with an aluminium brace bar temples. Available in various colour schemes: anis, kai, brown, plum, red orange, blue, grey and black. Also on display was the new Purple Collection from the renowned designer and numerous acetate frames in the now popular black and white colour combinations.
Designer Tom Davies marked his Mido debut by unveiling global expansion plans and by launching his biggest collection to date. Big changes are ahead according to Davies, who announced at the show that he had also appointed a new finance director and a former Marcolin sales director to take his company to the new level.
‘Up until now I have largely been a one-man band. This is a landmark year for the business and I wanted to bring on board the expertise to help me cope with the growing demand and to enable me to spend more time designing,’ he said.
On display on the first day of the show were prototypes of the new rimless collection, which is available in 16 colours and 16 eye shapes in a mixture of high quality aluminium and acetates materials. Manufactured in Japan, Davies described the frames as classic and understated, appealing to the more discerning consumer.
‘My bespoke clients such as Kevin Spacey are a good source of inspiration for me,’ Davies said. ‘They enable me to interact directly with the end user and gauge exactly what is important to them. They often come along with their own ideas of what they are looking for and they generally want their eyewear to make a statement in a sophisticated manner.’
This is the first rimless collection from Davies for some time. ‘Demand from bespoke clients suggests that rimless frames are making a comeback and the collection is being launched to tap into this demand,’ he added.